Scallops of the Sole: Holistic Well-Being Journey through Moccasin Making

Crystal Littleben

Miss Navajo 2017-2018, Office of Miss Navajo Nation
Blog #5: Navajo Cultural Arts Holistic Well-Being Series

A few weekends ago, I was asked by NCAP alumni, Sam Slater, to provide some of my knowledge about moccasin making during his "Walk in Beauty" Moccasin Making Workshop hosted by the Native American Studies Department at the University of New Mexico. I was also fortunate to present my platform of improving the holistic well-being of Navajo communities through Navajo cultural arts, stories, and language. But that's not all! I haven’t made a pair of moccasins in years and guess what?! Your Miss Navajo repaired her own Ké Nitsaa (moccasin wraps) during this

workshop as well! My moccasins were an inch too long due to wear and tear (probably from the rainy and muddy days) and the wrappings were hanging by a tread! With help from former NCAPer and awesome workshop leader, Sam, the repair (surgery) was successful! I cut half an inch off the sole and restitched the back half. The stitching naturally came back to me and it was like I never stopped making moccasins. This experience helped to jump start my critical thinking about the holistic components of moccasin making - so that's what I have for you today!

Helping the extremely talented Michelle Thomas wrap her mocs at the Ty Murry Invitational.

Physically
Moccasin making involves the virtuous manipulation  of raw materials such as latigo, buckskin, and sinew as well as the maneuvering of tools like awls, rocks, and the memories of my ancestors. Believe it our not, moccasin making takes a lot of physical strength endurance. In particular, it works your hands and your fingers. And if you aren't careful, it can be rather dangerous. During the workshop with Sam I was so excited about finishing my repairs that I stabbed myself. Good thing I didn't bleed on my moccasins. This cultural art also tests your eye endurance - as you are sewing, spacing is

crucial so that your moccasins seems don't have scalloped, wavy edges. This spacing is created through your diligent perception. So take time to rest your eyes. It pays of in the end. Your posture is also something that you have to pay attention to. Much like weaving, if your posture is poor, that laziness reflects in your work and back pain. Now mind you, this is just with the assemblage process. If you hunt, butcher and tan for your own buckskin - that's going to add a whole list of other physical demands as well.

Emotionally
My emotional health impacts my work - nothing beautiful can be created unless your mind is in a beautiful place. When you are laughing, joking, and enjoying your company - that is when you are in a beautiful place.  When I worked as the NCAP Project Coordinator, I loved hearing the laughter coming from our Moccasin Making Cohort on Saturday mornings. The more they laughed - the more they produced! Another emotional reward is the positive self-esteem and self worth that I gain after completing a pair of moccasin. I am what I make - whether it is a successful event or a balanced pair of moccasins. My deliverables reflect the emotional state that I am in while producing them.

Sam Slater also explained this connection between identity and moccasin making rather pointedly after the UNM workshop:  "My identity as an individual is so tied to this art, it was such a humbling experience to teach it once again. Over four days of sharing and living moccasin stories, I know each of these participants all have their own moccasin story to tell, a story they stitched themselves". In short, as my yáázh Wilson Aronilth says, if you do not know who you are, you can never truly be happy. Knowing you are a moccasin maker for cultural artisans like Sam brings happiness and grounding in our Diné cultural identity. 

Sam's "cheesy" photo of the workshop participants final products :)

Mentally
Moccasin making requires way more problem solving than you would think. For example, translating foot sizing into the creation process is taxing. The pattern can be drawn too big, too small, too narrow, too wide, you name it. Also - did you know that your feet are different sizes....HELLO, PROBLEM SOLVING! :) Additionally, the latigo can curve undesirably depending upon what part of the skin you use as well as the size of your stitch. You can end up with a baseball or a flat shoe. So you need to plan ahead and be dynamic all at the same time. In addition to the problem solving element, Sam also added that moccasin making is a space of critical consciousness: "One of the professor involved told me when you work in a university, you work to create this third space of

of critical consciousness for your students, but often feel you’re missing the tools. These sacred shoes of survival are those tools. That’s all I have to say now, that these kélchí and their beautiful makers are such powerful tools for our people. I’m grateful for all they continue to teach me." In my opinion - becoming a moccasin maker is like getting your Ph.D. is Critical Theory and Application.

Spiritually
Moccasin making naturally comes with a lot of teachings and stories. These teachings and stories intertwine with the assembling of moccasins. For example, my father Thomas Littleben teaches with stories in his Diné College moccasin making classes. The suede is the sky, the latigo is the earth, and the sinew is the lightening that connects the sky and the earth. This binding of mother earth and father sky around me keep me grounded as a Diné woman and Miss Navajo. While the binding keeps me grounded in this world, moccasin making also connects me to memories of

Yup! I fixed them myself!!

those who are no longer with us. It is in this way that moccasin making comfortably connects Sam and I. My aunt was known for making moccasins with a unique double stitch.  Sam found out about this stitch from his NCAC Moccasin Instructor, Harry Walters, and started to experiment on his own. The double stitch calms the scallops of the sole and as Sam worked on mastering this stitch, in a way he smoothed my soul, pushing memories of my bizhi to the forefront. It must be a Round Rock thing!

Thank you to NAS UNM and Sam for inviting me! Keep up the great work! And to our blog readers - if you want to give moccasin making a try - NCAP is hosting a mini moc workshop hosted by Aaron Begay, along with other cultural arts emphasis workshops during the 2018 Navajo Cultural Arts Week. Contact Christine or Sheryl to reserve your spot - They fill up quickly.

Next week's blog is by Johnnie on the holistic components of weaving --- so stay tuned!!